Ischia, Italy: Our Guide to Beaches, Thermal Spas and Castles

After exploring the Amalfi Coast, we were ready for a change of pace. Our next stop was Ischia, a volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples known for its thermal waters, beaches, gardens and laid-back island atmosphere.

We arrived by ferry from Sorrento, a journey of about an hour that included a short stop in Procida. As the ferry pulled away from Sorrento, it felt like we were leaving the crowds of the mainland behind and heading somewhere a little different.

And Ischia was exactly that.

We spent four nights in a beautiful Airbnb in Ischia Porto, just steps from the beach. It turned out to be an excellent base. We could walk to restaurants, shops and the waterfront, and having the beach so close made it easy to build our days around swimming and exploring. For our entire Italian itinerary check out this post.

A volcanic island with a long spa tradition

Ischia is the largest island in the Gulf of Naples, and its volcanic origins are impossible to miss. Beneath the island is an active hydrothermal system, which has produced the hot springs and fumaroles that have made Ischia famous for centuries.

The island’s thermal waters were used as far back as the arrival of Greek settlers in the eighth century BC. The Romans later developed the use of the springs, and thermal bathing became an important part of Ischia’s identity again during the Renaissance. By the 20th century, the island had developed into an international spa destination.

Today, thermal parks and spas are scattered across the island, ranging from small natural springs to enormous day resorts.

We would discover that the thermal baths were about to become one of the highlights of our entire month in Italy.

Our first day: beach time at Bagno Corrado

We arrived in Ischia before we could check into our Airbnb, stowed our luggage, and had several hours to fill and a hot summer day ahead of us.

We had a beach day at Bagno Corrado, a small beach club where we could rent chairs, relax by the water and have lunch right on the beach. The beach has a bar and restaurant, with traditional Mediterranean and Ischian dishes served overlooking the sea.

It was exactly what we needed.

After days of sightseeing, walking and moving between destinations, there was something wonderful about spending the afternoon in the water.

Our second day: exploring Castello Aragonese

One of our next adventures was a visit to Castello Aragonese, one of Ischia’s most recognisable landmarks.

The castle sits dramatically on a volcanic islet connected to Ischia by a stone bridge. Its history stretches back more than 2,000 years, with Greek and Roman connections before the Aragonese transformed it into the impressive fortress and royal residence that gives it its current name.

We had heard there was an elevator that could save some of the uphill climb. Somehow, we missed the turn.

There were no obvious signs telling us we had missed it, so we simply kept walking uphill.

The climb gave us a chance to experience the castle gradually, moving through the different levels, buildings, gardens and viewpoints. At every turn, there seemed to be another vista across the water or back towards the island.

Of course, there was one problem.

It was hot. And humid.

By the time we reached the upper levels, we were more than ready for a drink and a gelato. Fortunately, we found a rooftop patio with spectacular views, which made the break feel well earned.

We eventually took the tiny elevator back down – and after all that climbing, it felt like a very luxurious ride.

The castle is one of those places where the journey through the site is as interesting as the destination. Churches, convents, gardens and historic buildings are scattered throughout the complex, and the views over the Gulf of Naples are spectacular.

Dinner by water taxi

That evening, we decided to make dinner part of the adventure.

We took a water taxi from Ischia Porto to dinner at Ristorante Da Maria, and this was our special dinner of the stay.

The boat ride itself was worth it.

Seeing Castello Aragonese from the water as the evening light changed was one of those travel moments that photographs never quite capture properly. The restaurant is in the Bay of Cartaromana just a short ride from the port. It is known for traditional Ischian dishes, fresh fish and its panoramic views of the castle.

Unfortunately, the dinner itself didn’t quite live up to our expectations. It wasn’t bad, and the setting was beautiful, but after the anticipation and the special trip by water taxi, we had hoped for something more memorable from the food. Still, the evening was a success.

The boat ride, the views and the chance to see the island from the water made it a night we were happy we had done.

A full day at Giardini Poseidon Terme

If there was one day that stood out above the rest, it was our visit to Giardini Poseidon Terme in Forio.

We had been looking for a thermal experience and this one came highly recommended. Getting there was an adventure in itself. We took the local bus, which was incredibly full and very windy – but it was also considerably cheaper than taking taxis around the island with our group.

Once we arrived, though, the bus ride was quickly forgotten (although we took a taxi home at the end of the day).

Giardini Poseidon is enormous. Set above Citara Beach, the thermal park covers six hectares and has more than 20 pools, with temperatures ranging from roughly 28°C to 40°C. There are also seawater pools, a thermal steam grotto, Kneipp treatments, gardens, restaurants and access to the beach.

This is not a place to squeeze into a couple of hours. Plan on spending the full day.

We moved between pools, explored the grounds, relaxed and ate our way through the day. The natural steam cave was particularly memorable, as was moving between pools with different water features. And because the park sits right beside the sea, you can break up the thermal experience with time at the beach, although we prioritized the pools.

It was one of the highlights of our entire Italy trip. Even the bathing caps that are required for swimming were a fun souvenir.

If you’re planning a visit, Giardini Poseidon Terme currently operates seasonally, and its official site is the best place to check opening dates, prices and current information.

Wandering Ischia and eating like locals

Our last full day was intentionally less planned. We wandered through the local streets, explored the town and, naturally, ate.

One of our favourite stops was Bar dell’Orologio, a family-run bar in the centre of Ischia beside the clock tower of San Pietro Church. The kids ordered real hot chocolate. In the middle of summer. That little moment probably says more about the experience than any review could. It felt friendly, personal and very Italian.

We also tried zingara, a local Ischian sandwich made with toasted bread and fillings such as ham, mozzarella, tomato and lettuce.

And, of course, there was gelato.

Lots of gelato.

Getting around Ischia

We debated renting a car but ultimately decided against it. During the busy summer season, we had read plenty about the traffic and narrow roads, and with a larger group, a car didn’t seem particularly appealing. We were happy with that decision.

The downside was that taxis became expensive when we needed them for a group. The buses were much cheaper, but were incredibly crowded, especially when travelling during the busiest parts of the day.

For us, the best approach was a combination of walking and taxis. If we return, we would probably explore more of the island and accept that getting around will be part of the adventure.

One last swim

On our final night, we went for a night swim.

There was something fitting about ending our time in Ischia in the water.

The next morning, we were up early to catch the first ferry to Naples, where we would connect with our train to Florence.

We left Ischia knowing we had only scratched the surface.

Four nights had given us beaches, thermal baths, history, great food, a great bus story, a water taxi ride, plenty of gelato and some of the most beautiful views of our trip.

Ischia was busy in summer, but it never felt crowded like other spots we visited. There were still neighbourhood bars, local families, beaches, people gathering in the evening and plenty of opportunities to wander without a plan.

It felt like an authentic Italian island experience – and that made it one of the places we were most reluctant to leave.

We would absolutely go back.

Next stop: Florence.

For more on Italy, enjoy these posts.