7 Nights in Tuscany: Living Like a Local in Lucca

By this point in our trip, we were ready for a slightly slower pace. We picked up our rental car in Florence and made our way towards Lucca, where we would spend the next seven nights exploring the surrounding countryside and getting to know one of Tuscany’s most charming cities. Our original plan was to stay in Capannori, just outside Lucca, but our booked accommodation didn’t work out and we had to make a quick change of plans.

A Last-Minute Change That Worked Out

Our first night in Tuscany was spent at the Hotel Country Club, after our original accommodation plans changed unexpectedly. We arrived late in the evening without any notice and were pleasantly surprised by how welcoming they were. The hotel included breakfast, had wonderful staff, a lovely pool and was very reasonably priced, making it an ideal solution for a last-minute stay (and we were lucky to get the last two rooms). After a long day, this was exactly what we needed.

For the remaining six nights, we found a last-minute Airbnb apartment right inside the walled city of Lucca.

Getting to Lucca by Car

Driving in Tuscany was a very different experience from our time on the road in Puglia. While the highways were excellent and made getting around relatively straightforward, we quickly discovered that toll roads were part of the experience.

Unlike Puglia, where we hadn’t encountered tolls, Tuscany’s major highways charge depending on the route and distance travelled. We kept a bag of change in the car and were prepared for anything from a couple of euros to around €12 for longer stretches of highway. While it added a small cost to our road trips, we found the toll roads well worth using. They were efficient, saved us time and were generally easy to navigate. Having a rental car also gave us the flexibility to explore smaller towns and countryside destinations that would have been more difficult to reach by train or bus.

Many Italian towns and cities restrict vehicle access to their historic centres, and Lucca is no exception. These restricted traffic zones (ZTL) are designed to protect the historic streets and buildings while making the centres more enjoyable for pedestrians, but they can be confusing for visitors arriving by car. Only a small portion of the area inside Lucca’s walls was accessible by car, and our closest parking garage was about an eight-minute walk from our apartment. It was convenient, but parking was expensive enough that we eventually went looking for alternatives. We found a free 24-hour parking lot outside the city walls, about a 15-minute walk from our accommodation, which became our preferred option for the rest of our stay. The extra walk was manageable and saved us considerably on parking costs.

Staying Inside Lucca’s Walled City

Lucca is known for its beautifully preserved Renaissance walls, charming piazzas and narrow streets lined with shops, restaurants and historic buildings. While many visitors come to Lucca as a day trip from Florence or Pisa, spending nearly a week there gave us an entirely different experience. Rather than rushing through the highlights, we settled into the rhythm of the city.

We could walk out our front door in the morning and wander through the quiet streets before the heat of the day arrived. In the evenings, we would head out again for a walk or bike ride along the city walls, stopping for gelato, coffee or a drink in one of the many piazzas.

There was something wonderful about not having to pack up and move every day. We had a kitchen, laundry and enough space for our group to spread out, which made the apartment feel less like accommodation and more like home. It also meant we experienced Lucca as a place where people live, rather than simply ticking off tourist attractions.

Exploring Lucca by Bike and on Foot

One of our favourite things to do in Lucca was simply walk.

The city walls provide an elevated pedestrian and cycling path that circles the historic centre. Early mornings and evenings were particularly beautiful, when temperatures were a little cooler and the city was quieter. We spent time wandering through the different neighbourhoods, discovering small shops, historic buildings and tucked-away corners that we likely would have missed on a quick visit.

One morning, we decided to climb Guinigi Tower, one of Lucca’s most recognisable landmarks. What makes this tower particularly unique is the small rooftop garden, complete with mature trees growing at the top. The climb is worth it for the views alone. Looking out across the terracotta rooftops and surrounding Tuscan countryside gave us a completely different perspective of the city we had been exploring from street level.

We also enjoyed some shopping during our time in Lucca, particularly the leather goods available throughout the city. There was no shortage of places to stop for a coffee or a cold drink, and we quickly learned that lingering in a piazza is a perfectly acceptable way to spend part of an afternoon.

Eating Our Way Through Lucca

Food was, as always, an important part of our Italian travels.

We had lunch at Sunflower Bistrot, a relaxed spot that was perfect for a midday break while exploring the city.

For dinner, In Pasta was another memorable stop, offering exactly the kind of delicious, uncomplicated pasta we had hoped to enjoy in Italy.

One unexpected favourite was Haru Sushi in Capannori. Who knew sushi was so popular in Tuscany?

We certainly didn’t, but we were very happy to discover it. The sushi was excellent, the atmosphere was fun and the restaurant even had cat robots delivering food, which was a particular hit with the teenagers. We enjoyed it enough to return twice during our stay.

A Morning in Pisa

Pisa was an easy day trip from Lucca just a half hour away, and we decided to visit early in the morning before the crowds and heat became overwhelming.

Of course, the main attraction is the Leaning Tower of Pisa and the surrounding Piazza dei Miracoli, home to the cathedral, baptistery and famous green lawns.

We found a private parking lot not far from the tower, which made getting into the city centre relatively straightforward. Pisa was busy, as expected, with tourists from around the world lining up to take photographs pretending to hold up the leaning tower.

While it is undeniably touristy, there is something entertaining about watching everyone participate in the same tradition. We enjoyed taking in the atmosphere, admiring the architecture and finding a spot to sit with a cold drink before heading back to Lucca.

Driving Through the Tuscan Countryside to San Galgano

One of our longer day trips took us to San Galgano Abbey, a fascinating historic site about two hours from Lucca. The drive itself was part of the experience. We travelled through rolling countryside, vineyards, farmland and small villages, getting a better sense of the landscape that makes Tuscany so iconic.

San Galgano is particularly memorable because of its roofless medieval abbey. Built in the 13th century, the structure was once an important Cistercian monastery before falling into disrepair. Today, the remaining stone walls and Gothic arches stand open to the sky, creating an incredibly atmospheric place to explore and photograph.

There is also a fascinating connection to the legend of King Arthur. Nearby, at the small Church of Montesiepi, visitors can see what is known as the Sword in the Stone. The sword is embedded in a rock and is associated with Saint Galgano, a 12th-century knight who reportedly gave up his life as a warrior.

The abbey itself requires an entrance fee, which helps support the preservation of this important historic site. From the abbey, there is a short but steep walk up to the church, so comfortable shoes are recommended.

After exploring the abbey and church, we continued on for what was supposed to be a quick drink and snack. Naturally, that turned into pasta and focaccia.

More Day Trips from Lucca

One afternoon, part of our group visited Buonamico Tenuta in nearby Montecarlo for a winery tour. Tuscany is famous for its wine, and Montecarlo offered an opportunity to experience a smaller local wine region without committing to a full-day tour.

Another day, we drove about half an hour to Montecatini Terme. Montecatini is well known for its thermal baths and spa culture, but we were more interested in exploring the historic upper town. We took the funicular up to Montecatini Alto, where we wandered through the streets, enjoyed the beautiful views across the surrounding countryside and stopped for a cold drink. We had hoped to spend some time at one of the thermal spas, but ultimately decided it might not compare with the incredible spa experience we had enjoyed earlier in Ischia. Instead, we enjoyed a few relaxed hours exploring the town before heading back to Lucca.

The Value of Slowing Down

There were places in Tuscany we had originally hoped to visit, including Siena and some of the more distant destinations in the region. But as our trip progressed, we found ourselves increasingly happy to stay closer to home. After nearly three weeks of moving between cities and islands, everyone appreciated having a few slower days.

We could sleep in, wander Lucca, enjoy a long lunch or simply sit and read. That is perhaps what made our week in Tuscany so memorable. We didn’t just visit Lucca. We lived there, even if only temporarily.

Saying Goodbye to Tuscany

Eventually, it was time to leave our apartment and return the rental car in Florence. From there, we boarded the train towards our final major destination: Venice.

Tuscany had given us exactly what we needed at that point in our Italian adventure – beautiful landscapes, historic towns, excellent food and a chance to slow down and enjoy being somewhere rather than constantly moving on.

For our entire Italian itinerary check out this post.

For more on Italy, enjoy these posts.