Haida Gwaii, BC: Planning Your Way to an Unforgettable Experience
Where am I Headed?
Haida Gwaii, often called the “Galapagos of the North,” is an archipelago off the northern coast of British Columbia, rich in natural beauty, cultural heritage, and the kindest people. Formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands, Haida Gwaii is home to the Haida Nation and a breathtaking array of landscapes—from lush rainforests and rugged coastlines to serene beaches and towering mountains. For those seeking adventure and tranquility in one of Canada’s most remote regions, Haida Gwaii offers an unforgettable experience. This is a must-visit destination for Canadians, offering a deep connection to Indigenous history, awe-inspiring natural beauty, and a truly off-the-beaten-path adventure.
When to Visit
The best time to visit Haida Gwaii is during the summer months, from late May to early September, when the weather is milder, and outdoor activities such as hiking, kayaking, and exploring the cultural heritage sites are most accessible. During this period, the archipelago experiences long daylight hours, making it ideal for sightseeing and enjoying the vibrant local flora and fauna. If you’re interested in witnessing wildlife, such as migrating whales or abundant bird species, late spring to early summer is particularly good. For a quieter experience with fewer tourists, visiting in the shoulder months of May or September can offer a more serene atmosphere while still providing good weather.
If you are hoping to fish, peak salmon fishing season, typically runs from June to September. Anglers flock to the archipelago during these months to take advantage of the rich fishing opportunities, whether from the shore or aboard a boat. For those interested in halibut and other types of sport fishing, late spring through early fall is also ideal. Book your accommodations as early as possible, as they fill up quickly during this peak season.
Weather Tip: When I visited in early August for a yoga retreat, we lucked out with a mix of sun and clouds, and while it was warm, temperatures ranged from about 12 to 20 degrees Celsius. No matter when you visit, be sure to pack layers and bring your rain gear—you never know when the weather might change!
Getting There
One of the first decisions to make when planning your Haida Gwaii adventure is how to get there. The islands are remote, and while that’s part of the charm, it does require a bit of extra planning. You have two main options: fly or ferry.
Flying: The quickest and most expensive way to reach Haida Gwaii is by air. Daily flights are available from Vancouver (YVR) to Sandspit (YZP) or Masset (ZMT) with a travel time of around two hours. If you’re coming from further afield, you’ll need to connect through Vancouver, BC. Booking your flight well in advance is a good idea, especially during the peak summer months (June to August) when demand is high.
Ferry: If you prefer a slower pace and enjoy a scenic journey, BC Ferries operates a route from Prince Rupert to Skidegate. The ferry ride takes about seven hours and offers views of the Inside Passage. Remember, if you’re planning to take your vehicle, you’ll need to reserve a spot in advance as space can fill up quickly, particularly in summer. Check the ferry schedule and book your ticket as soon as your travel dates are confirmed.
Getting to Prince Rupert: If you’re driving, you can reach Prince Rupert via Highway 16, also known as the Yellowhead Highway. This scenic route takes you through the heart of northern British Columbia, passing through charming small towns and wilderness and is just over 16 hours north of Vancouver. For those traveling from Vancouver Island, BC Ferries offers service from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert via the Inside Passage, a 16-hour journey showcasing the rugged coastal beauty of British Columbia. This ferry route is an adventure in itself, offering breathtaking scenery and opportunities to spot whales, sea lions, and other marine wildlife along the way. Be sure to book a cabin for this passage as access to your vehicle is limited during the trip. For more on road trips and Northern Vancouver Island check out these posts.
Pro Tip: Regardless of your mode of travel, make sure to arrange your vehicle rental ahead of time if you’re not bringing your own. Options on the islands can be limited, and you’ll want the flexibility to explore at your own pace!
Location, Location, Location
Once you’re on Haida Gwaii, deciding where to stay is next. Most visitors base themselves in the larger communities. Each has its own charm and offers access to different parts of the islands.
Sandspit: Ideal if you’re flying in, Sandspit offers a quieter stay with access to hiking trails and beaches. It’s also the launching point for trips to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, a must-visit for any trip to Haida Gwaii.
Skidegate/Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte): A great central location with plenty of accommodation options, cafes, and the Haida Heritage Centre (one of my favourite spots) nearby. It’s a convenient base for exploring the southern parts of Graham Island and catching the ferry to Moresby Island.
Tlell: From here you can explore Port Clements and the nearby Golden Spruce Trail. This is also home to my first glamping experience and favourite accommodation at Haida Gwaii Glamping Co., which is well worth the splurge. It sits on a beautiful beach that is amazing for rock hunting, the stones look like pieces of colourfully polished candy. For more on glamping check out this post.
Masset: If you’re looking to experience the rugged northern wilderness, Masset is your gateway. From here, you can explore Naikoon Provincial Park, Agate Beach, and Tow Hill, where the ocean views are unmatched and you can drive right out onto the sand.
Day Trips
Haida Gwaii is made for day trips, with so much to see and explore! Here are a few must-dos:
Golden Spruce Trail: Hike through lush rainforest to the historic site of the Golden Spruce, a tree that was sacred to the Haida Nation before it was felled in an act of protest. The short, easy trail follows the Yakoun River and offers a glimpse into Haida Gwaii’s deep connection to nature and history.
Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve: Accessible only by boat or plane, this protected area is home to some of the most pristine wilderness and culturally significant Haida sites. Plan a guided tour to visit ancient Haida village sites like SG?ang Gwaay Llanagaay (Ninstints), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We used a local guide group – Haida Style Expeditions who customized a three day trip. I can’t say enough about our amazing guides, their local knowledge, and the meals that they made beachside. We visted Skedans, Windy Bay on Lyell Island, hugged a 900-year-old tree, ate fresh scallops and delicious halibut, saw puffins and humpbacks, witnessed trees taken down by 180 km/h winds at Ninstints, and relaxed at Hotspring Island. It was truly an unforgettable experience!
Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay: Located in Skidegate, this award-winning museum and cultural center is an essential stop to learn about Haida art, history, and traditions. It’s a powerful introduction to the culture of Haida Gwaii so make sure you plan enough time fore your visit.
Naikoon Provincial Park: Whether you’re hiking to the top of Tow Hill for panoramic ocean views, beachcombing along the endless sands of North Beach, or exploring the rainforest trails, Naikoon offers a slice of adventure for every nature lover.
Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum: Located in Masset, this charming museum offers a glimpse into the maritime history of Haida Gwaii and the role of the sea in the lives of its residents.
Local Artisans and Galleries: Haida Gwaii is renowned for its vibrant arts scene. Visit local galleries to see incredible Haida carvings, jewelry, and prints. Take home a piece of Haida art as a beautiful reminder of your journey.
Final Tips for Your Haida Gwaii Adventure:
- Respect the local wildlife and tread lightly—this region is home to many unique and sensitive ecosystems.
- Check the weather often and pack layers. Even in summer, Haida Gwaii can be cool and damp.
- Embrace the slower pace of island life—take the time to connect with locals, learn about Haida culture, and immerse yourself in the natural beauty surrounding you.
Get Ready for Your Trip with a Great Read!
Want to dive deeper into the history and mystery of Haida Gwaii before you go? Pick up a copy of The Golden Spruce by John Vaillant. This fascinating book tells the true story of a sacred tree, a controversial environmental act, and the rich cultural and natural heritage of the islands. It’s the perfect read to set the tone for your adventure.
Planning a trip to Haida Gwaii may take a little extra effort, but trust me, the experience of visiting this incredible archipelago is well worth it. Let the spirit of the islands capture your heart—this is one adventure you’ll remember forever.